LCC list

So after the fact adding it all up, this is what I have been taking down in times recent(pre and post ankle):

Mini Maische, v8 flash
Bar Fly, v8
Super Fly, v8
Bear Hug, v8
Shingles, v9
Amateur Series, v10
Copperhead, v10
Overhang Sit, v10
Pro Series, v11
Bully, v11
Maische Roof, v11
Standard Series, v12

I have more goals that I want to complete this trip, but having that ankle injury and still trying to get all of it done is letting me be content with my results...The other night I was chilling with Tye and Zak. We noticed that their apartments had a shit ton of phone books sitting out...there had always been the rumor that a phone book could be torn in half...well now you know.

...DON'T ASK...

UTAH UPLOAD

It's been a CRAZY couple weeks here in utah!! I have seen some incredible places on this trip that have changed my perspective on climbing. It kicked off when I went to Indian Creek with my buddies Nick and Jared. I am so syked these guys got me amped on this style. Its such a different approach to solving the puzzle than sport climbing. I am not trying to find holds on a face...I see the holds, its just a continuous crack that you have to understand. Well from there I headed up to SLC to catch up with my old friends Ty and Zak from back in Dallas days. I have been hanging out with my friend Tobias Macphee, an up and coming photographer and he has been taking some awesome photos, check out some more right here




I was on Bully the other day...I was about to hook it up nice and quick when I slipped off at the top and due to a poorly built landing I rolled my ankle!!!

I was out of the game for about a week from outdoor climbing, and was forced to train in the gym using my foot as little as possible. After I was able to squeeze my foot into a sport climbing shoe again I headed out to try some climbing in Big Cottonwood. The goal was a route called 'Dog Eat Dog' an infamous Johnny Woodward first accent that has yet to see a second. I worked out the moves but was all haggard from a late night, so I will need to head back up to hook it up!

INDIAN CREEEEK

I have been waiting for this moment for some time now. Tomorrow I am off to Indian Creek to make the magic HAPPEN!! It's a completely different thought process to finding the method in the madenss. I have had one day of crack climbing before but straight LOVED it. I did up all of it onsight so I have never even fallen on gear before, but nothing is gonna hold me back. I am ready to go give it what its worth!

....shit

well,
besides the weekend warrior mini's I haven't had a trip since Europe. Having it been enough overdue, I headed out for Utah on Friday, after monumentous snow storms, safety corridors and all sorts of biznass like that I rolled into St. George, Utah on Saturday afternoon, only to be in an accident an hour after!!! nothing bad except my poor radiator leaving me a little high and dry. Well, sunday everywhere was closed, not letting me get it to a mechanics until Monday, and they didn't finish until today...thats 8 days without climbing, I'm getting desparate for the southern Utah rock I have been hearing about....and so the epic begins.

INGLORIOUS BASTERDS and the Texas Life

Well,
Training and working in Dallas has been keeping me very motivated to stay at it and keep going hard. After nationals in Colorado, I was particularly syked up to try some local projects. But being that everyone had work or school, I found myself heading out for a session by myself. I headed up to Nolan River with 2 pads and started trying my skills on some climbs. After warming up I started working the moves on Superfly briefly, only to turn and look at Days on the Block, V10. Ryan Sewell had put it up while I was off in Europe and it looked enticing. after a couple tries I was on top and feeling syked. Now it was time for the true goal, the sit start. Once again, feeling out the moves getting everything feeling good. Then, on my first redpoint attempt I fell on the last move, a dyno of Days on the Block. Extremely surprised and excited I eagerly kept jumping on only to get to that last move. After no joke 12 or 13 more tries falling on the last move, I decide to take a rest and gather some strength. half an hour later, I stick the right hand crimp...huck...stick! The rush of excitement was exhilerating as I topped out the newest line at Nolan, Inglorious Basterds, V12. I have been meaning to get out there with actual people to get a video up or at least some pictures, until then, here is a clip of Sewell on the stand, enjoy...

Feeling Fit

Over the weekend was the Hueco Tanks Rock Rodeo. It has always been a really fun event that they put on and I hadn't been able to get there the past few years, so I made it a must. I drove out with Brian, leaving at 4 on Friday. Of course we hit traffic, and don't show up in El Paso until like 2 in the morning! Waking up at 7 in the morning didn't help too much either, but Brian and I couldn't be deterred. After El Pasito deliciousness for breakfast, we checked in and hit the mountain. First thing was first warming up on the classics like 'Nobody Gets Outa Here Alive' and 'Mexican Chicken' we started our agenda for the day. Brian slipped off on the first or second move, chalked up a minute later then fired 'Dark Age', v11. He is climbing very strong right now, having ticked 'Crown of Aragorn', v13, over the winter holiday. I was having a little bit more difficulty hitting my rhythm, but soon enough I followed as well on the classic. Moving on, we were trying out 'Loaded Direct', v11/12, with some other strong climbers. Group attacks on problems help a lot with keeping the syke up, but unfortunately, that nasty pinch of a starting hold disagrees. Once our friends decided to move on, we got lucky as the sun moved putting all the holds in the shade. Immediately it started warming up to us, and soon enough we topped it as well as the slightly easier line, 'Loaded With Power', v10. It was at that point we decided to take a half time break. We had three down and three to go. We headed over to Power of Silence to give it a shot. Fatigue started to set in, but the syke was still there, that is all that mattered. Then everyone rolled around letting us know how their day has been. Turns out a hold on 'El Techo de Los Tres B', was v13 now v11, had a broken hold changing the difficulty, although the scorecard still had the original points. Hearing that everyone else went and blasted through that was a little demoralizing, enough to make the syke go away at least. After that I simply worried about enjoying climbing for the rest of the day and let everyone else worry about competing. The standings ended up being Paul Robinson in first, followed by Mat Wilder and Garret Gregor. The after party as usual was entertaining at the Hueco Rock Ranch. Bright and early the next morning, it was time to hit the road to get back to Dallas, nothing like over 20 combined hours of driving for one day of climbing!!!

Progression

Well I am back from boulder nationals. I can't say it was the worst trip in the world. I didn't have the greatest climbing day ever, but still ended in 15th. Also, after removing non-US competitors I was sitting in 12th place which qualifies me to compete with the World Cup in Vail during the Teva Games this year...Really excited to represent the country at that level!! Having more competitions with that caliber of climbers in it is crucial for the sport to grow. I am not entirely sure of my exact plans after the competition. Before, my primary goal for the spring was a trip to the VRG to try, among others, the infamous Necessary Evil, 5.14c/8c+. Although that remains, I am going to prepare for the WC as well.

Another progression in my climbing I have been focusing on recently is my training. My philosophy about climbing revolves around the renaissance theory: in order to climb at your maximum potential it is necessary to be as skilled as possible in as many aspects of the sport as possible. This dives into constant debate among many climbers about which is better, climbing on outdoor rock or training in a gym. My take is that all parts sit equally important in my eyes. So...while here in Dallas, besides trying some local projects, I spend an abundant amount of my time training and preparing myself for the goals I set this year. After talking with everyone about climbing, workouts, and general fitness, I decided to begin posting some workouts on the blog.

So, until then, I'm throwing something a lil old school to entertain, hopefully my future will find me here soon enough...

I Represent for the SOUTH

hey yo,
well...all the training is finished, whats done is done. I leave tomorrow morning for the Show(OR Show in SLC) and also for Route National Championships this weekend. Over the past 2 weeks I have been doing some additional sessions besides just climbing. I was convinced by some friends to go do a yoga sess with them, and I must say, it is pucking exhilerating. I have never felt so loose and limber since I started climbing! Also, to pick up some extra cash I helped out a friend taking down christmas tree lights at a huge convention center. We had to rappel down onto pipes about 120 feet off the ground, descend huge strings of lights, shimmy across more pipes, repeat, then rap down to the ground looking like a badass!!! The Texas bouldering regionals were this saturday. I remember when I used to be into nostalgia, so for old times sake I helped MC and spin some music. Other than that I have been climbing, climbing, climbing so hopefully good things are to come!