Time to Do The Damn Thing

We are all doin just great now. The crew, recently changed to THREE

is about to be all finished here. Just as I thought it would be tooooo wet for Triptizzle, I went up it today, it miiiight be climbable still, that and a huge shiny clear magnificently magnificent blue sky are bringing the syke back up. That and after a couple goes I fell on the last hard move of Total Eclatch (first half of kinematix) yesterday and tomorrow it will fo' sho' be finished up. if that wasn't good enough. Just two days ago I warmed up, reput the draws on the beginning and sent Hot ChilX, 5.14bizzle!!! I had fallen off of the last move the climbing day before, and was skeptical to try it again, but successfully pulled through shaking on every move of the crux in true fashion of the 'just to spite you' send!!!


OH EVEN MORE GOOD NEWS IMA BE BACK IN SPAIN IN BOUT A WEEK!!!!! Gabor has the car and after his last world cup in Puurs, Belgium hes headin straight down. good luck Gabs and godspeed

Judgement Day

Sooooooooo....we have officially been trapped in the mist in the gorge for days on end, I think our combined total of any amount of ANY sky in the past 4 days is less than 10 minutes. the day to decide has arrived, we NEED to bounce...but where to?
Hope to hear good things gabor, keep tearin up wherever you are!

So......this is a serious moment, depressing too. Unless a fucking miracle starts up then triptik is OUT OF THE GAME. Id like to still try it but projecting .14c wet is HANEOUS! sad days at the crag, so to lift our spirits we get all tickled up over this:

Fresh Off The Press

So some serious stuff has happened in the past several days!! where to begin...a veure...ok so last Teusday me and jon head to Enzo and Freds house for a night in a bed and a shower(our friends here are the best!) also, because the next day melissa showed up. After a loooong day of dealing with a SERIOUSLY JETLAGGED Melissa, we rest up and the next day make our way back to the cliff with public transportation. Getting back almost at the end of the day session(before the sun hits the wall) we hit the warmup routine quick and hard to get to the damn thing. Jon had his really good burn on Kine' a couple days before and was skeptical as to if he could live up to that attempt again today. After a bolt to bolt sess on both our projects, jon suits up to give it a burn. I gotta say, he made it through total eclatch, 8c, SOOOLID. the only other person I had seen do it that easily was Rustam, who podiumed at world cups, so I was syked to see what would happen. He starts the link into Honk and just keeps pullin until he shows up where he fell last time.....HE LOCKED OFF THE FUCKING MOVE!!!!! So needless to say, the game was fuckin on now. He only had 8 more nonstop power pullin moves of INTENSE resistence left, each move was a toss in the air, couldn't tell what was goin on in his mind except just try and keep going. He sticks the first finish hold...there is a slight pause, his feet were lower than usual....while in his hesitation his arms are chicken winging like you wouldn't believe...afraid he is freezing up I shout oyut "C'mon, fuckin throw it up there"!!! right off he tosses his foot high, throws a kneebar, matches up, and CLIPS THE CHAINS OF KINEMATIX, HIS FIRST 5.14D!!!! Props jonny boy! I hopped on Triptik once, stuck my highpoint then bumping again slipped off, just matching it and I am finished. Also, I then went from lower before the crux, all the way to the top, so I know it is finished within the next couple goes, fellin syked.

Friday we met up with our friends from Down Under and went to Jurassic Park. We had tried this route there recently Zobble, 5.14b/c, for one day and were syked to get some more time on it. After I go bolt to bolt to get the beta down again, Jon hops up and pumps off after the crux move!!! I too get a high point sticking the first crux move and bein a little to tired to pull off the next one. Jons next go and he easily polishes off Zobble, 5.14b/c!!! I get a little too fatigued to get to the chain, but am certain that this too will be finished up next few attempts on it!

Well, Jon....5.14d and .14c.....not a bad 2 days, bet your feelin pretty good

heres a little after shot of his victory meal

Progress...

Jon and I have been workin on the projects lately, and slowly but surely some results are showin. Today we did the usual warm ups, falling ooh so deeply into the routine norm. it was day number 3, and at a place as physical as this wall, that many days is truly only for those who know how to persevere. After I did a bolt to bolt of the bottom crux of TripTik, decided Kinematix was ready for yet another redpoint burn. After only having pulling through the reeeeeally tough Total Eclatch at this point in the project process, not too much was expected. He pieced it together in style falling on the head wall( 1 move from the second to last clip) then right away went to the top. Needless to say when your dealing with a 9a route, a 1 fall is some IMPRESSIVE STUFF!! Magnus and Rustam, the two latest accents of the route, took quite some time before entering into the headwall just to give some perspective on this stuff.


Rustam on the move that marked Jons highpoint today


So after that it was up to me to keep the standard of progression. I hopped on TTT and stuck the first of the 2 crux moves(which is at the end of a difficult resistence sequence the first 6 clips off the ground). Super gassed, I try to bump up on it a little better and get spit off. SYKED...because yesterday I was able to do the route from 2 clips below to the chain, so the end is near!!!

heres enzo oddo( 13 year old Nice BEAST, sending the route just the other day)

after such a good day we are left in good spirits.
GOOD THINGS ARE COMING

Check it yooo

Jon babbles on about this place and how amazing the climbing is. Hes a pretty well traveled dude when it comes to climbing so if he says so, its prolly a damn cool video to see!

Welcome to Greatness

AAAHHHHH, past two days can only be described by one word...SIIICK!! So I took my long rest(2 days i know Im spoiling myself) with hopes that something would click. Philipe hooked us up with a bed for the night on friday, I need at least 1 day away from the cliff to feel normal...so this was a very good hook up.
Saturday-
We arrive at the cliff, warm up, hop on the proj's.....and I fall on the last move of the crux.... jon does as well on his...not exactly what we were hoping for. I lose the syke for the day and give this route honk a burn, miss a hold halfway up, fall, and go straight to the top. It was a freakin frustrating day I must say. After feeling so terrible, I was hoping that a 'repose' would do some good, but after today I wanted to leave this place, enough said.
Sunday-
another night at the crag, the beast stayed its distance so we didn't need to plan any assaults. Go through the warm up routine once again...as I said, gettin a little fed up with it all. I tie into the rope, hop on the route....everything went PERFECT!!! Every move on the route felt super casual until the crux. I had done the moves so many times, there was no way I was letting go and sure enough, I didn't. That burn put Ultimate Sacrifice, .14b/c, in the bag, my hardest to date! Riding off of the syke, I decide to try honk again and see if anything happens. Sure enough something did. I cruise through the move I had missed before. Everything followed in perfect harmony on the route. I grab the finish hold, kick the right foot up to put the knee bar needed to clip the chain and.......NOOOOO. I took the last hold a little to low and there was no room for my knee!!! Frantically I try and fix it all, but was in the wrong position and it was too late, down I fell. I decide to chill until the evening session and hope I still had some energy in me. Jon goes for another burn on triptik tonik, his project at the moment, and falls once again on the last move of the endurance crux....it has been a rollercoaster of emotions today already!!! We go down to the swimming hole, jump in the freezing water, then proceed to chill until the sun is off of the wall for the evening session. after a few quick warm ups Jon preps up for his route. "...don't even think I can get through the bottom crux this time...", that was about all that was said. Ten minutes later, in an absolute casual style through the entire way, he is clipping the chains of Triptik Tonic, a solid and sick .14c. Props for sure, its an AMAZING tufa line, that except for two holds with a little sika, is entirely natural. OK OK, I digress, the day is by no means over. flooded with excitement, I start working my way up my route once again. If the last burn I felt great, the only way to describe this time is indubidably stupendous. I grab the finish hold, double bump to make sure there remained room for the knee, and topped off Honk, .14a. The master plan that formed in my head earlier was that if I do honk, to go for Hot ChiliX, .14a/b, but seeing as I had just climbed honk twice...Lack of power appeared as a problem. I decide to cut my losses and go for a slightly easier route. I tie in and start up Deverse SatanX, the locals went a little overkill with the X on the end of routes but who am I to judge. I am working up, feeling pretty gassed. I pull through to the rest before the crux, and just go for it. I don't fall on the crux thankfully....I fell just past it on the LAST MOVE AGAIIIIINN!!! ah, After my feelings going up and down, time after time, I settle at a content level for the day. Jon and I got a little gift from our russian neighbors at the cliff, a free dinner!! I take one whiff of the rice and meat and get......an energy. This surge came over me as I looked up at the route. "Jon I need a catch" I say as I prep up for what I assumed would be a pathetic attempt. I start climbing.....don't feel good. Barely get to the rest....still don't feel good. when I make up my mind to go for it, I am immediately pumped out of the rest. Each move includes a desperate flick of the wrist to try and get any energy possible. I almost fumble the last clip, just clipping in time to grab the nearest hold from desperation. I continue to suffer until the move I had just fallen at before. I desperately toss....and by some magis catch the last crimper. In my last effort before I thought I had no more I toss my foot up to grab the finish hold just next to it. Yet another miracle happens as I catch it, bump up again to get it good, and clip the anchors of Deverse SatanX, .13d. oh yeah, the sun had already gone down and it was my first HEADLAMP SEND!!! We dig into our savory dinner and basque in our victories of the day. Without a doubt my hardest climbing day of my life!

oh no the news isn't over yet
Monday-
Jon and I wake up to Rustam, doing his morning stretches getting syked up to climb. to keep it short, I shall say it as casual as he made it look. on his 39th try, he fired off Kinematix, .14d, making him the first Russian to achieve the magical grade!

Weather and Rest

UUUGHHHHH... the crew, jon and myself, hitchhiked down for free wifi again. Deverse is a cool wall to climb at, but soooo physical that after a couple weeks, my body is completely exhausted, every day feels a little worst than the last now and we did a group call to go ahead and take a good rest period. After Jon properly dispatched Hot ChiliX this morning, after falling on the last move!, we cut off the day early and the rest of the week is gonna just be...chill. The weather has been persnickety lately, heating up getting humidy also. Hopefully when we get back to doin the damn thang all charged up, we will have some better conditions to look forward to...